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  • The Science and Safety of Panthenol in Skincare

    Panthenol has become a cornerstone ingredient in dermatological care, valued for its profound impact on skin health and its exceptional safety profile. Below is a detailed look at what makes this „pro-vitamin“ so effective.

    1) What is Panthenol?

    Panthenol, also known as dexpanthenol, is the stable alcoholic analog of pantothenic acid, or vitamin B5 [3, 7]. While it exists in both D- and L- forms, only D-panthenol is biologically active [7]. When applied topically, it is well absorbed by the skin and rapidly converted enzymatically into pantothenic acid [5, 7].

    This conversion is vital because pantothenic acid is a key component of coenzyme A (CoA). CoA serves as a necessary cofactor for various enzyme-catalyzed reactions essential to cellular metabolism, including the synthesis of fatty acids, proteins, and steroid hormones [5, 7]. In the world of cosmetics, panthenol is primarily utilized as a skin-conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent [5].

    2) Safety of Panthenol

    Panthenol is widely regarded as safe for use in cosmetic formulations. The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety has assessed panthenol and several of its derivatives, concluding they are safe within current practices and concentrations [5].

    Toxicity: Studies indicate that panthenol has a very low potential for acute toxicity [5].

    Irritation: In numerous dermal irritation experiments, panthenol has been found to be non-irritating or, at most, a very mild irritant [5].

    Allergy and Sensitivity: While rare, some cases of allergic contact dermatitis have been reported [5, 7]. Retrospective studies show a very low incidence of positive patch test responses, with one study citing only 0.96% of patients exhibiting a reaction [5].

    Widespread Use: Because it is well-tolerated, it is frequently used in products designed for sensitive or injured skin, including post-procedure aftercare [1, 3].

    3) Effect of Panthenol on the Epidermis

    Panthenol offers multi-faceted benefits for the epidermis, particularly in terms of hydration and barrier repair.

    Moisturization: Panthenol acts as a powerful humectant, improving the hydration of the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of the epidermis) [1, 6, 7]. Formulations containing as little as 1.0% panthenol have shown significant improvements in skin moisture [6].

    Barrier Restoration: It plays a critical role in maintaining skin integrity by reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) [1, 2, 6]. This helps to restore and protect the damaged skin barrier after irritation or injury [1, 6].

    Wound Healing: Panthenol accelerates the skin’s natural healing process by stimulating fibroblast proliferation and promoting rapid re-epithelialization [3, 4, 7]. It has also been shown to upregulate specific genes critical for the healing process [4].

    Anti-Inflammatory Properties: Beyond hydration, panthenol helps alleviate pruritus (itching) and reduces inflammation in local skin areas, providing relief for dry or irritated skin [2, 7].

    Bibliography

    [1] Stettler H, et al. A new topical panthenol-containing emollient: Results from two randomized controlled studies assessing its skin moisturization and barrier restoration potential, and the effect on skin microflora. Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 28, 173-180, 2017.

    [2] Zhu J, et al. Alleviating Skin Barrier Disruption, Skin Inflammation, and Pruritus: A Moisturizing Spray Containing β-Glucan and Panthenol. International Journal of Dermatology and Venereology, 2021.

    [3] Gorski J, et al. Dexpanthenol in Wound Healing after Medical and Cosmetic Interventions (Postprocedure Wound Healing). Pharmaceuticals, 13, 138, 2020.

    [4] Heise R, et al. Dexpanthenol Modulates Gene Expression in Skin Wound Healing in vivo. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 25, 241-248, 2012.

    [5] Scott LN, et al. Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 41, 77S-128S, 2022.

    [6] Camargo FB Jr, et al. Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 62, 361-369, 2011.

    [7] Ebner F, et al. Topical Use of Dexpanthenol in Skin Disorders. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 3, 427-433, 2002.

  • Lysolecithin

    1. What is Lysolecithin?

    Lysolecithin is a natural, skin-loving lipid that belongs to the phospholipid family—the same essential building blocks that make up every cell in the human body [1, 10]. While standard lecithin is well-known in skincare, Lysolecithin is a more specialized version that has been refined to be more „water-loving“ [1, 6].

    By adjusting its natural structure, a more flexible molecule is created that blends beautifully into creams and serums. This makes it a powerful bridge between oil and water, ensuring your favorite products feel smooth, stable, and luxurious on your skin [1, 4, 6].

    Natural Origins: Our Lysolecithin is primarily sourced from high-quality vegetable oils like sunflower, soybean, or rapeseed [2, 4, 8].

    Bio-Friendly Production: It is crafted using a gentle enzymatic process that mirrors how our own bodies break down and use fats [9, 10]. Because it is a „native“ lipid, your skin recognizes it immediately and knows exactly how to use it for repair [1, 3, 6].

    2. Gentle and Safe for Daily Use

    We prioritize ingredients that are as kind to the skin as they are effective. The safety of Lysolecithin is backed by extensive independent research.

    Proven Safety: Global safety experts have reviewed Lysolecithin and concluded it is completely safe for use in all types of cosmetics, from face creams to body washes [9].

    The „Soothing Buffer“: Research shows that Lysolecithin is non-irritating and non-sensitizing [9]. In fact, it is often included in high-end skincare specifically to make other ingredients gentler, acting as a soothing buffer that protects even the most sensitive skin types [2, 6, 9].

    3. How it Transforms Your Skin

    Lysolecithin goes beyond just mixing ingredients; it acts as a functional „active“ that works directly with your skin’s outermost layer, the stratum corneum [6, 7].

    Barrier Restoration (The „Refatting“ Effect): Everyday environmental stress can strip away your skin’s natural oils. Lysolecithin acts as a „refatting“ agent, stepping in to patch gaps in your skin’s barrier. This prevents moisture from escaping—a process known as Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL)—and keeps your skin looking plump and healthy [2, 5, 7].

    A „Smart“ Delivery System: Its unique shape allows it to temporarily soften the skin’s surface in a healthy way [1, 6]. This helps other beneficial ingredients in your product—like vitamins or antioxidants—sink in deeper and work more effectively rather than just sitting on top [1, 6].

    The „Silk-Effect“ Finish: Because it integrates so perfectly with your skin’s own biology, it leaves behind a signature silky feel. It doesn’t just coat the skin with a heavy film; it supports your skin’s natural ability to breathe and repair itself while providing a massive boost in hydration [2, 6, 10].

    Bibliography

    [1] Li, J. et al. A review on phospholipids and their main applications in drug delivery systems. Asian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 10, 81–98, 2015.

    [2] Thy, L. T. M. et al. Applications of lecithin in emulsion stabilization and advanced delivery systems in cosmetics: A mini-review. Results in Surfaces and Interfaces, 19, 100543, 2025.

    [3] Küllenberg, D. et al. Health effects of dietary phospholipids. Lipids in Health and Disease, 11:3, 2012.

    [4] Gutiérrez-Méndez, N. et al. Lecithins: A comprehensive review of their properties and their use in formulating microemulsions. Journal of Food Biochemistry, 46, e14157, 2022.

    [5] Paraskevopoulos, G. et al. Lysosphingolipids in ceramide-deficient skin lipid models. Journal of Lipid Research, 65, 100508, 2024.

    [6] van Hoogevest, P. & Fahr, A. Phospholipids in Cosmetic Carriers. In: Nanocosmetics, Springer, 95–156, 2019.

    [7] Aburai, K. et al. Physicochemical Analysis of Liposome Membranes Consisting of Model Lipids in the Stratum Corneum. Journal of Oleo Science, 60(4), 197–202, 2011.

    [8] EFSA Panel (ANS). Re-evaluation of lecithins (E 322) as a food additive. EFSA Journal, 15(3):4742, 2017.

    [9] Johnson, W. Jr. et al. Safety Assessment of Lecithin and Other Phosphoglycerides as Used in Cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 39(S2), 55–255, 2020.

    [10] D’Arrigo, P. & Servi, S. Synthesis of Lysophospholipids. Molecules, 15, 1354–1377, 2010.