Panthenol has become a cornerstone ingredient in dermatological care, valued for its profound impact on skin health and its exceptional safety profile. Below is a detailed look at what makes this „pro-vitamin“ so effective.
1) What is Panthenol?
Panthenol, also known as dexpanthenol, is the stable alcoholic analog of pantothenic acid, or vitamin B5 [3, 7]. While it exists in both D- and L- forms, only D-panthenol is biologically active [7]. When applied topically, it is well absorbed by the skin and rapidly converted enzymatically into pantothenic acid [5, 7].
This conversion is vital because pantothenic acid is a key component of coenzyme A (CoA). CoA serves as a necessary cofactor for various enzyme-catalyzed reactions essential to cellular metabolism, including the synthesis of fatty acids, proteins, and steroid hormones [5, 7]. In the world of cosmetics, panthenol is primarily utilized as a skin-conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent [5].
2) Safety of Panthenol
Panthenol is widely regarded as safe for use in cosmetic formulations. The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety has assessed panthenol and several of its derivatives, concluding they are safe within current practices and concentrations [5].
Toxicity: Studies indicate that panthenol has a very low potential for acute toxicity [5].
Irritation: In numerous dermal irritation experiments, panthenol has been found to be non-irritating or, at most, a very mild irritant [5].
Allergy and Sensitivity: While rare, some cases of allergic contact dermatitis have been reported [5, 7]. Retrospective studies show a very low incidence of positive patch test responses, with one study citing only 0.96% of patients exhibiting a reaction [5].
Widespread Use: Because it is well-tolerated, it is frequently used in products designed for sensitive or injured skin, including post-procedure aftercare [1, 3].
3) Effect of Panthenol on the Epidermis
Panthenol offers multi-faceted benefits for the epidermis, particularly in terms of hydration and barrier repair.
Moisturization: Panthenol acts as a powerful humectant, improving the hydration of the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of the epidermis) [1, 6, 7]. Formulations containing as little as 1.0% panthenol have shown significant improvements in skin moisture [6].
Barrier Restoration: It plays a critical role in maintaining skin integrity by reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) [1, 2, 6]. This helps to restore and protect the damaged skin barrier after irritation or injury [1, 6].
Wound Healing: Panthenol accelerates the skin’s natural healing process by stimulating fibroblast proliferation and promoting rapid re-epithelialization [3, 4, 7]. It has also been shown to upregulate specific genes critical for the healing process [4].
Anti-Inflammatory Properties: Beyond hydration, panthenol helps alleviate pruritus (itching) and reduces inflammation in local skin areas, providing relief for dry or irritated skin [2, 7].
Bibliography
[1] Stettler H, et al. A new topical panthenol-containing emollient: Results from two randomized controlled studies assessing its skin moisturization and barrier restoration potential, and the effect on skin microflora. Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 28, 173-180, 2017.
[2] Zhu J, et al. Alleviating Skin Barrier Disruption, Skin Inflammation, and Pruritus: A Moisturizing Spray Containing β-Glucan and Panthenol. International Journal of Dermatology and Venereology, 2021.
[3] Gorski J, et al. Dexpanthenol in Wound Healing after Medical and Cosmetic Interventions (Postprocedure Wound Healing). Pharmaceuticals, 13, 138, 2020.
[4] Heise R, et al. Dexpanthenol Modulates Gene Expression in Skin Wound Healing in vivo. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 25, 241-248, 2012.
[5] Scott LN, et al. Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 41, 77S-128S, 2022.
[6] Camargo FB Jr, et al. Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 62, 361-369, 2011.
[7] Ebner F, et al. Topical Use of Dexpanthenol in Skin Disorders. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 3, 427-433, 2002.